The Science of Virginskin

Virginskin Beauty combines the pioneering vision of renowned New York dermatologist Dr. Albert Lefkovits with the latest dermatologic science to offer high-performance skincare.  I had the good fortune of meeting the legendary Dr. Lefkovits when I was in training and I love that the Virginskin Daily Glow Active Hydrator honors his legacy.  It includes hard-working ingredients from the original formulation like squalane, tocopherol, shea butter and sunflower seed oil, in addition to updated actives like niacinamide, polyglutamic acid and crocus bulb extract.

Let's take a closer look at the ingredients.

The Daily Glow Active Hydrator is an effective moisturizer because it contains the ideal combination of humectants to hydrate the skin, emollients to support the skin barrier, and occlusives to lock in moisture.  Humectants, like glycerin and polyglutamic acid, are mostly low molecular weight substances that bind water into the stratum corneum.  They need to be used along with the other components to retain the water content.  Emollients, like squalane and sunflower seed oil, are saturated and unsaturated variable length hydrocarbons which help in skin barrier function, membrane fluidity and cell signaling leading to overall improvement in skin texture and appearance.  Occlusives, like dimethicone, are oils and waxes which form an inert layer on the skin and physically block transepidermal water loss.  With glycerin, polyglutamic acid, fatty alcohols, squalane, sunflower seed oil, shea butter and dimethicone, the Daily Glow Active Hydrator checks all of the boxes!

And thanks to the additional actives in the formulation, the Daily Glow Active Hydrator is more than a moisturizer-- it has anti-aging, brightening, and firming properties as well.

Niacinamide is found in the formulation at 4%-- that's twice the concentration at which niacinamide is considered to be active.  Niacinamide, or vitamin B3, is a wonderful multi-tasking ingredient.  It can help with oil regulation, barrier function, aging, hyperpigmentation, acne and eczema!  It's great for improving both tone and texture.

Niacinamide is a potent antioxidant that brightens skin by fading hyperpigmentation and reducing redness.  It has been shown in several studies to help reduce some signs of skin aging, particularly skin tone and texture. Some studies have found that it may help reduce the appearance of age spots and other forms of skin discoloration, including melasma (A Double-Blind, Randomized Clinical Trial of Niacinamide 4% vs Hydroquinone 4% in the treatment of Melasma; Dermatol Res Pract 2011).

And studies have shown that topical niacinamide can increase the skin's production of ceramides and have stabilizing effects on the skin's barrier function, which can help improve moisture retention.

Also at an active level in the Daily Glow Active Hydrator formulation is polyglutamic acid.  Like glycerin, polyglutamic acid is a humectant that binds water, but unlike glycerin, the polyglutamic acid molecule is a water-soluble peptide with a larger molecule size, which means it doesn't penetrate as deep into the skin.  Instead, it forms a hydrogel film on the surface of the skin that prevents water from evaporating.  This occlusive property means that it helps the skin retain moisture.  And when combined with other humectants like glycerin, it creates visible plumping because these two humectants are working at different levels in the skin.  Polyglutamic acid has also been shown to boost skin elasticity.

The third hero active in the Daily Glow Active Hydrator formulation is a botanical, crocus bulb extract, present at 3%, which is more than three times the active level.  Crocus bulb extract has been shown in studies to boost collagen and elastin production, improve skin texture, reduce wrinkles, improve skin firmness and resilience, and stimulate natural growth factors.

Additional supporting ingredients include trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2, which can increase collagen and elastin production, and mimosa and lavender, which have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

This combination of ingredients in the Daily Glow Active Hydrator makes it suitable for all skin types because it's moisturizing and soothing without being heavy or comedogenic.  And the additional anti-aging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, brightening and firming properties make it an excellent choice for those interested in improving skin tone and texture.

The key to finding skincare products that will work optimally for your skin is to understand the ingredients and the properties they offer.  Look for ingredients that address your specific skin concerns and formulations that contain these ingredients at active levels so that you know you can reap their benefits.  Understanding this enhances the appreciation for the Daily Glow Active Hydrator formulation because of its high-quality humectants, emollients and occlusives and the active levels of niacinamide and crocus bulb extract-- a combination that not only moisturizes the skin and supports the skin barrier but also improves skin tone and texture.

Dr. Hadley King, MD